How to instal the Kart-Timer timing hardware


This article explains how to set up the Kart-Timer system for single loop purposes.

Remember: Before installing the LTS04 (Ethernet decoder), the Timing computer needs to have Windows 10!

Download the full manual in the attachment.


The basic Kart-Timing hardware consists of a few components:

  • Loop
    The loop can be any simple loop, like the one from DeHaardt. It needs to be connected through a special plug. 
  • Decoder
    The decoder has 2 connections: the loop cable and the USB cable to the PC. 
  • USB cable
    The USB has a default length of about 2 meters, but can be longer or even prolonged with an extension. Like this the decoder can be up to 10m away from the computer.

Follow these instructions to install the hardware:

Step 1: Putting the loop in place

For indoor tracks, use this simple rule: if the transponder is 20cm high on the go-kart, put the loop cables 20cm apart. The lower the transponder, the better. The minimum width for the loop is 15cm.

For outdoor tracks, you can go a bit wider than this rule but not too much as the passing may be taken twice.

The loop should be on a depth of about 1 cm, covered up with silicon or glue.

If there's another part of the track next to the loop, you might want to terminate it inside the barriers instead of outside.

Step 2: Decoder placement

The decoder must be off the ground, at a height of 50 to 100cm. It should preferably be protected from the track, by placing it behind the barriers/tires lane.
As a reminder, the loop is only used to wake up the transponder when it passes. Then, the transponder sends the signal directly to the decoder. That's why the decoder has to be on a good spot.
Avoid having any other electrical equipment within 1 meter of the decoder.

Step 3: Connecting the loop with the decoder

To connect the loop cable with the decoder, you'll need to use a special plug. Unscrew the inner ring of the front (indicated on the picture below. Then you can take out the actual connector and connect the wires.


Step 4: Calibrating the loop power

If the loop is missing passings, the power needs to go up. If the loop picks up karts that are too far away, the power needs to go down.

To adjust this, open up the Decoder. Inside you'll find 7 dip-switches, corresponding with the strength. Only one of them should be active. Strength 1 is the most powerful, strength 7 is the weakest. You can change these switches manually, but never enable 2 at the same time.




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